Favorites from The Sartorialist

Not only are the images on The Sartorialist beautiful and well-shot, but they seem to capture the personality of the individual as well as the beauty of their clothes. I am inspired by these shots to take some risks and get excited to get dressed every day, but never look like I'm trying too hard. I also pine to live in Paris or Milan while browsing these (and even Moscow!).

For more Sartorialist awesomeness (if you live under a rock with a computer that doesn't have this website), see my Reading List for the link.

Hanging up the Cs for good.

I haven't found many remarkable new fashions or accessories to note here lately, and that gave me a thought.

In my shopping days of the past two years or so, my tastes have definitely changed. While in college and high school, and my early twenties, I loved a good logo-emblazoned Coach bag. I got a little kick from watching the logo pattern fly as I threw the bags onto my shoulder, and felt more stepped-up when I carried them. Even when the purses were on the arms of every prepubescent and living-beyond-their-means Bridgeport beauties, I guess the power of association with expense still made me feel a little special for having one. For a couple of years, very few non-Coach purses interested me.

Another point: Tiffany & Co. Their jewelry is exquisite, their china superb, and I will always have at least two Tiffany-style glass lamps in my dwelling. But after tallying four Tiffany necklaces, one bracelet and a pair of earrings between 2001-2004 (excluding the Return to Tiffany heart pendant on the long ball-chain - that I received for my Sweet 16 and I have had it for just about 10 years!), I have perused tiffany.com a few times over the last year, eager to find a substantial piece of jewelry, and have left the website disappointed. Honestly, how many permutations of circles, squares, locks, Roman numerals, dog tag-style pendants and balls can you work into a piece of silver before they all start to look the same? And with prices for a simple silver necklace rising almost $100 in the past five years, how do you justify it?

My label-whore days are definitely behind me. I've suspected this for a while, and I will still pay more money for great construction and quality. But I haven't seen a single item on the websites of luxury I once loved in a loooong time that I felt more than lukewarm about. Why go for a $250 1" square silver pendant on a chain, with a single T engraved on it, when I can get a unique sterling pendant at an antique store for $50, which no one else has? Why drop $398 for a leather purse emblazoned with Cs and hideous patchwork when you can grab a slouchy, classic leather two-tone hobo in Paris for EU160, which no one else has, and which is made of the most supple leather you've ever felt? Sure, the plane ticket cost $600, but the point is this: I'd much rather be complimented on personal style than on burning my plastic to carry the latest flash-in-the-pan Vuitton bag.

So below is a list of low-key items in my dresser and closet that I love, and which I feel exemplify my personal style better than any label could.

• Chinatown turquoise cocktail ring ($18 haggled down from $28). I adore turquoise in the summer, and the heaviness and size of this ring makes me want to move my fingers just to watch it. It's like the hippie-esque Lucky Brand rings you can buy at Macy's for $48. Just much better, and cheaper.
  
• Black/white and red/white houndstooth plaid summer scarves from Paris (2 for EU10). Not just because I bought them in Paris, and I was disappointed to find them in the States when I returned. But these scarves have a smooth, lightweight texture and are the perfect size and shape to be knotted in different ways. It sounds corny, but wearing them reminds me of wandering St. Germain and shopping for purses in Au Printemps.
  
• L.L. Bean Black Wool Polo Coat (approx. $200 (gift)). The long, lean shape of a polo coat is flattering on everyone, and the higher collar was a warm change from my peacoat of college. Plus, everything from Bean lasts forever. You get what you pay for there, except their $29 sweaters which are still glorious.
  
• Multicolored glass bead necklaces from a head shop in Key West ($6 each). My newest addition, these necklaces are bright, textured, and look like they could come from Spain or Mexico. They have a slight hippie vibe, but work with a blazer or a sweater, too.
  
• L.L. Bean Galway Jacket in Camel ($99). Flattering cut, high stance, three buttons, indestructible wool and a classic cut that goes with dresses, jeans and trousers.
  
• Paris purse (see above).
  
• Murano glass necklaces (approx. EU12 each (gifts)). One squarish and in green, the other blue/white marbled oval beads. They are both stunning with any neutral top or dress, were inexpensive souvenirs from family members, and for all my jewelry-hunting, I've never found anything like them at any price.
  
• Chinatown gold-tone aviators ($10). I love the sarcastic, yet chic look of aviators. When you buy them in gold-tone in the right size and shape for your face, they look lightweight, laid-back and polished. These particular glasses have survived two drunken bachelorette parties and a couple of summer barbeques. They even flew off a boat, and I managed to catch them. They must be magic.

What are your favorite low-key items?

Cheers,

Hayley

Paris Fashion Part II: Unstructured Bags

Every fall, it seems we get a "new" lesson in structure - wool skirts, tailored trousers, no-nonsense handbags. In the spring we shed the angular attire for flowy skirts and soft totes. But while in Paris I noticed something you don't see too often here in the States: unstructured, dark bags, made of everything from leather to vinyl, with embellishment, hardware and even fringe. In midsummer, I expect unstructured bags, but in materials like canvas, silk, wicker, and cotton. Somehow the women of Paris made bags I'd only have considered for fall and winter look sophisticated and season appropriate. And of course, effortless.
Betsey Johnson, $395



Camilla Alves, $650



Dautore, $656



Francesco Biasa, $248

Paris Fashion Part 1: Harem Pants

One activity that continues to stand the test of time in Paris for both locals and tourists is people-watching. Al fresco cafes naturally lend themselves to this, with tables facing the sidewalk and long, lingering meals and drinks encouraged. The high population of stylish people in Paris truly makes this activity enjoyable because one will see many unique, elegant people in chic outfits that look smart, yet effortless. Looking stylish while being comfortable is often a hard combination to create, but the French do this remarkably well, always looking as if they didn't try hard at all.

And then there is the occasional piece that can only be pulled off in Paris. By a Parisian/enne. With a statuesque body. Enter the most prominent trend I saw in Paris that hasn't quite become mainstream in the States yet: harem pants.

Don't be mistaken; these are not of the bright pink variety you wore with your Princess Jasmine Halloween costume you wore in 5th grade. Or college, although the top in college was probably a lot more revealing, just like the actual Jasmine, whom I still consider to be too tartly dressed for Disney. But this is the same company who gave all princesses a pert C-cup enclosed in seashells and bustiers.

Anyway.

The harem pants gracing the runways of YSL and Marc Jacobs range from ballooning, to MC Hammer width at the hips and thighs, to "skinny" harem pants. The basic idea of these pants are:

• loose shapes in soft materials
• hems between the knees and ankles
• with banded material at the hem

The pants cling to the body only at the bottom; some cling from the low thigh to mid-calf, and others simply look like gauchos with rubber bands at the hems. Most versions I saw in Paris were comparable to those on Ashlee Simpson, below.

I did see a few quirky, passable combinations with harem pants that surprised me, given their avant-garde shape in terms of street wear. Many young girls paired them with clingy tees and flip flops. Others wore a tank/vest combo on top, and some of the girls truly willing to combine cultures wore them with gladiator sandals, tall and small. My favorite look involved a pink short-sleeved camp shirt under a brown vest, with beige skinny harem pants and bright green flats. The colors, except the shoes, were quite neutral and the trendiness of the pants were offset by the old-school layering on top. The flats popped the outfit and took the dressiness of it up slightly.

One credit the French must get is willingness to experiment without looking like a total train-wreck. As daring as these pants are, and despite my unwillingness to participate in this trend yet, I didn't see any harem-panted madamoiselles and think "Mon dieu." Rather, they looked as if they might be young models, or just grabbed them out of a drawer in the morning, added a cardigan, flats and slouchy bag without a second thought, and dashed out the door with confidence and effortless chicness.

But while these particular girls pulled off this look, there are probably going to be thousands of women who try this trend, 90% of whom shouldn't dare. Here are the risks of donning the harem pant:

• pear-ization. Any pant that is smaller on the bottom and voluminous on top will widen the hips and thighs, and of course, the derierre. Beware hippy women.
• balloon-ization. Unfortunately, like many trends, this was not made for curvy women. Odds are if you are larger than a US size 8, harem pants will hide your curves in volume, making you look larger overall, especially the poofier varieties.
• VPLs.
• risky top pairing. What on earth does one wear with such a pant?

Well, as with most loose-fitting bottoms, one must wear a tailored or close-fitting top to complement harem pants. The top must also not be too long, because these pants will be the focus of the outfit, so hiding them is useless. If you're going to try Jasmine on for size, try these tops:

• 3/4 or short-sleeved Oxfords or camp shirts
• clingy tees (any neckline)
• vests
• structured tanks
• short-sleeved cardigans
• flat sandals
• ballet flats

Avoid these:

• overly casual tops. This makes the outfit look more PJ than fashion-forward.
• long-sleeved cardigans. This is a summer look.
• embellished tops. Add beading to harem pants and you will look like you're wearing a costume.
• tunics. Blocks the pant styling.
• empire waist tops. Flowy midsection with flowy legs is too much volume.
• gladiator sandals. The ones that really look Greek just create a look that's too ethnic.
• stilettos. This look is too casual for spikes.

If you try the harem pants right now, you'll undoubtedly be ahead of the trend here, and will have the bragging rights to say you wore them before everyone else in the States did. However, wear 'em the wrong way and you'll just get a lot of weird stares. The most "flattering" pants I saw were of the skinny variety, in dark colors. And these pants are already a statement, so keep accessories on the subtle side, save for a bangle or a funky necklace, which would work great alone.

To send you off, below are some other harem pants looks. Remember this as well: what works on rue Rivoli in Paris may not translate for Greenwich, so keep your surroundings and audience in mind. Wear 'em if you dare, but don't say I didn't warn you!